Exploring Vágur in the Faroe Islands

Location MapDuration: 11 days
Expenses: 2380DKK (AUD$470 or AUD$43/day)
Ferry: 171€ (AUD$250 or AUD$23/day)

imageIt might seem silly to spend pretty much the whole trip to the Faroes on just one island, but there was actually plenty to see and do. So much so that it really didn’t seem worth rushing all the way (not far at all really) to the opposite side of the archipelago just to tick a few things off. Some things are better left ’til next time.

Getting in, around and out

There are essentially two ways in and out of the Faroe islands:

1. Through Tórshavn via the Norröna ferry from Iceland or Denmark – I arrived on the ferry from Seyðisfjörður, Iceland
2. Through Vágar International Airport – I flew out of Vágar on to Edinburgh

Getting around the islands is easy with the intricate network of connected buses and ferries. Plus hitchhiking was very fast and easy. I never had to wait more than 10 minutes and a couple of times I even caught the first passing car.

What was there to do in the mysterious Faroe Islands?

So as I said, I arrived in Tórshavn to start with. Ólavsøka was happening and so I spent a day and a bit in town and around to see Kirkjubøur.

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The harbour front, the home of Viking parliament in 850 AD and now Faroese parliament

On the second day, I caught the late bus to Vágar and stopped off at Giljanes which is in between the towns of Midvágur and Sandavágur – no more than a mile in either direction.

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Crossing the outfield and navigating the mists

From there I hiked from Sandavágur to Gásadalur via Slættanes and then spent a few days in Gásadalur itself waiting for the perfect sunrise or sunset.


One of the sunsets at Gásadalur

After investing a few days at Gásadalur, I thought I had better make use of the good weather to spend a night on Mykines in sea bird paradise. There I found myself surrounded by an incredible variety of sea birds and literally face to face with puffins.

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They sometimes let you get surprisingly close

In between all that while resupplying in Sørvagur, I found a bit of time to do a short day walk to see Tindhólmur and Gashólmur – the bizarre island stacks nearby. As you sail to Mykines you can actually see they aren’t strange at all. The ferry perspective shows how they once joined onto the mainland.


The sharp cliff edge of Tindhólmur

And lastly, at the end of my stay in the Faroes, I lazed inside during the bad weather at Giljanes. I was a little surprised by gale force winds that escalated during my stay and almost had a repeat of the events at Álftavatn in Iceland. The campsite there has very little shelter and my tent wasn’t really setup on the right angle, but it managed to survive yet again. I certainly got good value when I bought this tent from Macpac several years ago now.

In the brief moments where it wasn’t raining I managed to get out for walks around Midvágur and Sandavágur.

There wasn’t a whole lot to see in Midvágur itself, but if you venture a bit further you will find the mind bending clifftop lake of Leitisvatn (also known as Lake Sørvagvatn). From the roadside west of town it’s less than an hour round trip (a car is handy, but I found it easy to hitch). You can also walk from Midvágur itself – it’ll just take more time.


Leitisvatn meets the ocean

Walking around the coast of Sandavágur was pretty interesting too. The wind was horrendous, but I really wanted to see the little farm houses I could see from the Giljanes lodge. In the end I also stumbled across the anticlimactic Troll’s Finger on the sea cliffs.

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An old clifftop farmhouse and the Troll's Finger

I then hitched a ride to Vágar airport (boom! first go again) with a funny Faroese man. He kind of reminded me of a hobbit with a foul mouth. He absolutely hated living in the Faroes which was amusing for me having just visited and been amazed by so much. He’d actually driven a few hours from Klaksavik in the north to pick up some friends, and yet couldn’t be bothered to drive the extra 20 minutes to see Gásadalur when I suggested it. Each to their own I guess!

So from here it was off to Edinburgh to reunite with the Dream Team and tour a Bit’a Britain


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